Using bolts for stand

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stovenoob
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Using bolts for stand

Post by stovenoob » Fri Nov 12, 2010 9:16 pm

Venom top and bottom, screws are tapped directly into the top so that height can be adjusted when changing fuel. I thought about using thumbscrews, but the regular brass bolts turn easily enough by hand. Due to the weight of the cans, the type of stove, and the fact that I didn't use fiberglass inside, the performance of the stove is nothing to brag about. I apologize in advance if the use of bolts in this fashion proves to not be nearly as novel as I thought.

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zelph
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Re: Using bolts for stand

Post by zelph » Fri Nov 12, 2010 9:34 pm

Bolts are fine. Do you have any photos of the stove burning without a pot on? It will be interesting to see the jets while the center is also burning.

Nice first post. we're glad to have you here. thanks for sharing your ideas and photos.

Have you made other designs?
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

stovenoob
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2010 9:06 pm

Re: Using bolts for stand

Post by stovenoob » Fri Nov 12, 2010 11:27 pm

Indoor burning on 15 ml S-L-X:
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With 4.5" base titanium teapot on top with a .5" gap:
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Doing an indoors test with 2 cups of water and 15 ml of fuel I got to 190 degrees (9:50) on S-L-X and 183 degrees (9:20) on Everclear.

I've built other peoples' designs before, penny stove, knock off white box type (from Venom bottles), mini-ion type. I'm a bit discouraged with how the results of anything jetted compares to non-jetted wicked designs. Do you see wicked designs as always out performing jetted types for fuel efficiency?

realityguy
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Location: slightly north of Seattle,WA

Re: Using bolts for stand

Post by realityguy » Fri Nov 12, 2010 11:38 pm

Jetted stoves look cool but..I build more wicked stoves because I want the options of different types of burns or a multiple type of burn.I don't just boil water;I want a simmer mode for baking goodies or simmering meals. A lot of my stoves are two stoves in one or even more "burn" options for longer burns,lower burns,hotter short burns..whatever it takes for whatever i want to cook at the time...therefore I usually don't use or carry jetted stoves except on some dayhikes when I'm making coffee only...

But that's just my opinion.. :lol:
The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

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zelph
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Re: Using bolts for stand

Post by zelph » Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:35 am

I think you would have achieved a boil if you had used an aluminum pot.

Are you having to wait for the stoves' jets to ignite before you put the pot on?

Stove making is the art of presenting a flame to the underside of a pot. SLX has more btu's than HEET. All things are to be considered in the final results.

The base line of a good stove is: 2 cups boiled with 1/2 ounce denatured alcohol. Air temp 70 degrees, calm indoor preferred for testing. 70 degree starting temperature for the water.

Jet stoves are more finicky to get them right.

Stoves that require priming waste fuel. An example is the White Box Stove. It takes a loooooong time for it to get the jets going before you can put the pot on. Long after the stove was being sold the maker, Bill Ballowe had to add to the stove instructions how to prime it externally to get the jets to fire up. Priming it externally like putting the stove in a puddle of fuel and igniting the fuel. Priming wastes fuel.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

stevebo
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Re: Using bolts for stand

Post by stevebo » Sun Nov 14, 2010 3:11 pm

how about 3 rivnuts where the bolts thread into the stove? Maybe with a thin washer on each side of the stove metal to beef up the rivnut base? I like the idea of being able to adjust the height of the pot-------------just had a thought, if you used a metal rod, bent a 90 into one end, and then threaded the other end, you should be able to adjust the height even while the stove is burning---just nudge the pot stand rod with a tent peg etc to spin it up or down. You could also turn it out for a broader base etc. Just a thought! Good luck!

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zelph
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Re: Using bolts for stand

Post by zelph » Sun Nov 14, 2010 7:45 pm

The bottom of the venom bottles are really thick, nice to tap threads for the screws. Make the top out of a bottom ;)
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

stovenoob
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Re: Using bolts for stand

Post by stovenoob » Mon Nov 15, 2010 10:35 pm

Yup, that's what I did. Both the top and bottom of my stove were made out of a Venom can bottle bottom, for the sole purpose of being able to tap the top this way. The real trick was shaping the top, without using a press (which I don't have). I created a hexagon shaped piece of oak that the top could sit around, and the oak had a 1.5" hole through it. I then cut a 1" hole in the top and smoothed it out with a round file. Then I took a blow torch to the top for a little bit, used a gloved hand to set it over the wooden block, and then pounded 33 mm socket onto the thing, until I had curled the metal of the top into the hole a .25" all the way around. The piece of oak cracked btw, and took too long to make, so I might not being making another anytime soon.

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zelph
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Re: Using bolts for stand

Post by zelph » Tue Nov 16, 2010 3:25 pm

The good news is that it worked good enough for the one stove. Great way to do it, ingenuity, I like it!!!! :D
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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