Lighting the Backcountry boiler

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english stu
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 3:51 pm

Re: Lighting the Backcountry boiler

Postby english stu » Wed Jun 06, 2012 2:26 pm

bbb. Just returned from another few days out with the BCB. Had some wet weather so had to search for dry wood.I use some tinder and if available add small Larch twigs (matchstick thickness) to start the fire off. I did use some Birch bark this time as well. The fire does not raise above the fire base. I do light the tinder then add the Larch twigs as I find there is more control than lighting from the top.I light it and get it going before I put the chimney on.
I do try and set the BCB up on rock so the draught is better and clear.If possible I find a rock or log to sit on just to save bending and ease of checking how things are going.I do have a piece of tubing with an aluminium pipe end to give the fire box a bit of blow if needed.

bbb
Posts: 47
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:27 am

Re: Lighting the Backcountry boiler

Postby bbb » Fri Jul 13, 2012 5:42 am

Thanks for the info, English Stu.

For the lightest weight I could use the standard firebox as you described and continuously feed the fire, and for 75g extra I could use the following larger mesh/foil base (which I have just made) which has enough space for a top lit batch load of wood:

the mesh is stainless steel from a birdfeeder, the bolts are stainless too, the foil is currently aluminium (may need replaced in future but has survived 2 burns so far.)....

My minimalist (<50%) MYOG neoprene cover allows this base to store around the boiler.

BCBSSMeshBase3D.JPG
BCBStainlessMeshBase3D

BCBSSMeshBaseUsage.JPG
Base Usage

BCBSSMeshBasePacked.JPG
Packed

english stu
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 3:51 pm

Re: Lighting the Backcountry boiler

Postby english stu » Wed Jul 25, 2012 11:08 am

bbb, I like the look of your idea. Before I make one are the uppermost bolts for the kettle to sit on. Overall the new base seems to be shown as having a larger diameter than the kettle,as noted in other fire box mods aren't the flames up the sides then a problem or with the cut down neoprene is that no longer an issue.

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zelph
Posts: 15783
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:53 pm

Re: Lighting the Backcountry boiler

Postby zelph » Wed Jul 25, 2012 10:28 pm

Same question here. any flames up the side?

English Stu, have you tried the wood pellets in the BCB. Sorry for not answering your email :o You owe nothing, just a report on how they work for you.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

bbb
Posts: 47
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:27 am

Re: Lighting the Backcountry boiler

Postby bbb » Thu Jul 26, 2012 7:00 am

Yes the three upper bolts are for the kettle to rest on; one also doubles as an upper bolt to join one top end of the 2 mesh arcs together, the opposite ends of the arcs have their top join lower down (as shown in the BCBStainlessMeshBase3D diagram): this allows the base's upper diameter to be "squeezed" a bit to give a closer fit (small (1mm-ish) gap) round the kettle base. The encircling foil contains the flames from the sides: Part of the reason for this base was to get a tighter fit to avoid such flames out the side (and I haven't seen any), my idea was that the chimney effect would make the flames prefer the chimney exit:

however, I think a little smoke may escape, I'm not sure if I would rely on it completely with a full neoprene sleeve, for that perhaps either a better fit or some other way to seal the gap would be best. Anyway, for the 50% sleeve would allow simpler packing (is no lower neoprene to be damaged by surrounding packed base), with a full sleeve I would feel the need to have a protective cotton sleeve between the two (burning cotton dust OK (I think), burning neoprene dust unknown: don't want to make any unnecessary dioxins etc). Hopefully, I'm worrying too much.

Perhaps you could roll the lower half of the sleeve over itself to form a 3/4 sleeve or just make a rough 50% test sleeve from something else. Or whilst testing surround lower half of neoprene with alu kitchen foil (secured by rubber band(s)?) to protect it.

(I didn't like the Ikea base's flaw of flames on outside, as they immediately blackened and "stickyed" the kettle's outside, thus negating one of the BCB's main selling points: so far this new base doesn't seem to have deposited much ).

english stu
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 3:51 pm

Re: Lighting the Backcountry boiler

Postby english stu » Thu Jul 26, 2012 10:59 am

bbb,thanks I have the idea now.

Zelph,
Many thanks I will let you know how I get on with the pellets.

bbb
Posts: 47
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:27 am

Re: Lighting the Backcountry boiler

Postby bbb » Fri Aug 10, 2012 5:42 am

I'm now getting some faint non-sticky staining on the boiler (used with mesh/foil base).

The alu foil has lasted 8 burns so far.

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zelph
Posts: 15783
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:53 pm

Re: Lighting the Backcountry boiler

Postby zelph » Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:18 pm

The alu foil has lasted 8 burns so far.


That's good results so far for alu. Thanks for the update. :)
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

bbb
Posts: 47
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:27 am

Re: Lighting the Backcountry boiler

Postby bbb » Thu Sep 20, 2012 5:46 am

The alu foil on the mesh/foil base is still OK.

To avoid the slight non-sticky staining, I wonder if a folding octagonal mesh/foil base would be better ("diameter" just less than BCB with BCB resting on pegs/ 3 bolts: sort of like a hexagonal woodgaz. In the fullness of time I think I will build one...

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zelph
Posts: 15783
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:53 pm

Re: Lighting the Backcountry boiler

Postby zelph » Fri Sep 21, 2012 12:53 am

Does the aluminum foil have an insulating quality causing it to take longer for the water to boil?
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/


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