DIY Asym tarp length, options? & how to

[gear-report]

I made an Asym tarp with the rectangular dimensions of 65" x 155".
That is a bit over 5 ft wide by nearly 13 ft long.
On the diagonal, it measures 168"... about 14 ft.

So far, I have only 4 tie out points... one on each corner.
I've only hung it once to test, but I'm wondering if I made it too long.
Can't seem to pull it tight enough with the 4 corners only.

Just curious if anyone else has experimented with an Asym tarp this long, and if you have any feedback.

Options I'm considering:
1) trimming it down to 11' or 12'
2) adding additional tie out points a foot or two in from one end, along the long tarp edge, so that it can be hung between trees spanning less than 14'
3) Cutting each end in 1' at the center in a V shape (like the ends of an Ogee tarp, with the point of the V towards the body of the tarp), so there are doors on the end that can be used when pitched lengthwise (would also have to add tie outs at the points of each V).
4) Doing option #3, then adding Triangles to make it an Ogee (hmmm, would be same size as my other DIY Ogee, not sure I need 2 identical).
5) adding side tie outs, either 1, 2, or even 3 per long side.

Right now I'm leaning towards #5 with 1 tie out added at the mid point of each long side, and #2 at 2' from the end.

Other trivia:
-body of 1.1oz sil
-tie out reinforcements of 1.9oz sil
-tie outs of old 1" nylon strap liberated from the backpack I use to carry my books in college (yes, they had nylon back then)
-edged in WW 7/8" black grosgrain. The binding foot on my 15-91 folds it in half, then rolls each edge under, so it is effectively slightly less than 1/4" wide along the edge, and 4 layers thick.
-no idea on weight. really need to get a scale. almost took the one stamps.com offered for free, but then realized it only works with their software, and only if you have an active subscription to stamps.com. grrrr.

Pics and write-up of the project can be found at this the following:
http://gear-report.com/how-to-make-a-diy-asymmetrical-hammock-camping-tarp-myog/

[realityguy]

Did you cant the sides?
1)Seems logical as long it doesn't throw your asymetrical points catty-whompus from the hammock ones.I run my asymetrical points 22" from the center of each side,one direction for the head,opposite for the feet..but I'm 5-7...so if you do likewise,yours would probably be 26-28" or so for a longer flat lay in the hammock.Cutting off one end would make it "off"..cutting off both ends equally would keep it even.My hammock tarps are hexes with cant sides so the asymetrical points line up with the hammock ones..less tie-outs if I want them,using one stake for two lines.One has rolled up velcroed drop corners on the asymetrical short sides for more coverage.Those corners can be dropped to a different pitch than the tarp's side or out at the same..
2) wouldn't this throw your ridge line off?I run a felled seam at the ridge for more strength there,more possible tighter stretching.I haven't used the 1.1 stuff so all my info might be out the window as far as stretch/strength,etc..
3)I'm assuming you tie downward the out points(rather than flap in the breeze) and keep the inner V point as the ridgeline point..is a 12" incut enough for "doors"?..or does it matter if they only go down a little bit rather than a "door"?
4)Appears you answered your own question about a need for that..
5) You could add a couple tieouts on each side and V the line to one stake in between the two with an optional stake placement anywhere between the two tie-outs.Tie-outs are handy on perimeters to allow several different hanging configurations verses weather/wind/etc. and don't add much for weight.Using them or not is your option..nice to have them when they are suddenly considered needed.Floating stake points are good for options of where to put them(That damn boulder was exactly where my stake needed to go..no problem now!),adjusting tensions for each portion of a side,etc...
My info might not be helpful and something you knew already...

EDIT:..Appears you don't like center seams..just looked at your link... Your "tear" may be come a problem...

[ConnieD]

The "pucker" along the ridge line is how people make their catenary-cut tarps: pin the ends to a wall, find that curve line, chalk the new line, cut, sew edges together.

Maybe your really big assym tarp wants to be a really big catenary-cut assym tarp?

[gear-report]

Did you cant the sides?

Nope. Straight sides.

1)Seems logical as long it doesn't throw your asymetrical points catty-whompus from the hammock ones.I run my asymetrical points 22" from the center of each side,one direction for the head,opposite for the feet..but I'm 5-7...so if you do likewise,yours would probably be 26-28" or so for a longer flat lay in the hammock.Cutting off one end would make it "off"..cutting off both ends equally would keep it even.My hammock tarps are hexes with cant sides so the asymetrical points line up with the hammock ones..less tie-outs if I want them,using one stake for two lines.One has rolled up velcroed drop corners on the asymetrical short sides for more coverage.Those corners can be dropped to a different pitch than the tarp's side or out at the same..

Very interesting idea, moving the ridgeline tie points in from the corners.

2) wouldn't this throw your ridge line off?I run a felled seam at the ridge for more strength there,more possible tighter stretching.I haven't used the 1.1 stuff so all my info might be out the window as far as stretch/strength,etc..

As you noted in your edit, this design has no center RL seam.

3)I'm assuming you tie downward the out points(rather than flap in the breeze) and keep the inner V point as the ridgeline point..is a 12" incut enough for "doors"?..or does it matter if they only go down a little bit rather than a "door"?

Yes. Here is a link to an article with pics of my Ogee tarp with the doors tied down. Body started as 13' x 6', cut the V in 12" on each end... just as you described. I was surprised that only 12" of V depth created the doors.
http://gear-report.com/how-to-make-a-di ... tarp-myog/
Also shows my HH Hex clone with the slight cat cut on the sides and RL.

4)Appears you answered your own question about a need for that..
5) You could add a couple tieouts on each side and V the line to one stake in between the two with an optional stake placement anywhere between the two tie-outs.Tie-outs are handy on perimeters to allow several different hanging configurations verses weather/wind/etc. and don't add much for weight.Using them or not is your option..nice to have them when they are suddenly considered needed.Floating stake points are good for options of where to put them(That damn boulder was exactly where my stake needed to go..no problem now!),adjusting tensions for each portion of a side,etc...
My info might not be helpful and something you knew already...

Yep, the more I think about it, the more I see the value in having additional tie-outs. Looks like I'll be adding quite a few more.

EDIT:..Appears you don't like center seams..just looked at your link... Your "tear" may be come a problem...

Center seams... nope. Just trying different designs for different conditions. First one had a center seam, last two did not.
Yeah. Imagine my surprise when I found the little tear AFTER the whole project was done. That is what I get for not thoroughly inspecting the sil before starting. Not sure if I should patch it or if some silicone caulk will be strong enough to seal it.
Hmmmm. I read where some folks use Silicone caulk to attach side pull-outs. If it will hold strong enough for a pull out, I should be able to use it as adhesive to hold a patch.
If only I had not used every square inch of this color sil. Oh well, the patch will be two shades darker, as that is the only other blue sil I have.

[gear-report]

The "pucker" along the ridge line is how people make their catenary-cut tarps: pin the ends to a wall, find that curve line, chalk the new line, cut, sew edges together.

Maybe your really big assym tarp wants to be a really big catenary-cut assym tarp?

I think I understand what you are suggesting, but not really eager to undertake that. I can't sew straight, or on a curve reliably. I'm sure I'd just make a mess of it.
My HH Hex clone as a straight ridgeline, but it look s cat cut because of the full length ridgeline.
So far, I've not tried a full length ridgeline on this one. Maybe it will have a similar effect.?

[realityguy]

My confusion on the "doors"..generally a small outward and downward extension off the front(or back) of a tent or hammock tarp I thought was traditionally called a "beak"...I assume "doors" generally cover at least to the bottom of a hammock or a full waterproof or bugproof opening cover on the end of a tent or hammock.

Your "patch"..Time to get an "AT" patch you sew on or for some other place you've been..like Yellowstone,Mt Rainier,or other national park..to make it look like not a "tear" but a "been there!" sticker. More holes,more BT patches.. Back in the olden days,people used to cover their windows of an RV or trailer with souvenir stickers purchased everywhere they've hauled the thing.You can do that with your tarp..

cat cuts:I usually take a limber board stationary at both end points and bowed 1"in the middle for every 4' of distance..so an 8' span would get a stick bowed/traced/cut 2" dip in the middle..seems to be adequate for sides and edges also..for me.It's not too much to be a PITA to sew the curve,but enough to keep the tarp tight.
I see no purpose in adding the extra trim pieces or its extra weight..and usually just roll over about 3/8",iron it,then roll it again about 3/8",no pinning.Gives 3-4 layers and better strength on the edges with a double row of stitching.. the second stitched row 1/2 the width of the foot following the outer row which follows the edge of the ironed roll(first row sewn rolled portion up) by about 3/32"(second row stitched from the other side).1.1 silnylon may stretch,bunch up,and be a pain trying to do that and make it look nice,haven't tried it yet.I would assume adding the heavier trim would negate the purpose of using 1.1 nylon to start with.With rolling it,I don't have to burn it.I've seen/bought a lot of tents that have trim where the nylon has unraveled between the stitching of the edge trim and no longer fixable without pulling in some of the actual tent material to get something to bite to again,especially along pole sleeves.With a double rolled edge I don't seem to have that problem.