The Albert Skye Alcohol Stove

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Albert Skye
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Location: coastal B.C.

Re: The Albert Skye Alcohol Stove

Postby Albert Skye » Sun Apr 25, 2010 1:26 am

zelph wrote:In the thread about the Super Stove it tells how to reduce the distance from stove to pot in order to use white gas, kerosene, lamp oil and ?(i forget)


Thanks, I see that now (long thread).

zelph wrote:Drilling the inner portion of the burner would allow fuel to leak out.


Sorry for the confusion, I should have been more clear; i.e., by "inner cylinder" I meant the column on which the stove slides. If you weren't joking. ;)

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zelph
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Re: The Albert Skye Alcohol Stove

Postby zelph » Sun Apr 25, 2010 11:20 am

Seattle has over 200 days a year with some measurable rain.
I think I could live with better than the cold cold winters of Norther Illinois. At times I think of moving to Washington to get away from the true winter.

Sorry for the confusion, I should have been more clear; i.e., by "inner cylinder" I meant the column on which the stove slides. If you weren't joking. ;)


My fault!!! I read "inner cylinder" and my mind heard "burner" it's an oldtimers syndrone :D

as they say in England "There is no bad weather, only inappropriate clothing"


There is a lot of truth to that. In my area I need to dress like an Eskimo or else freeze my buns and face off.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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aambee
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Re: The Albert Skye Alcohol Stove

Postby aambee » Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:51 pm

zelph wrote:Update, pot support has been reduced in length.

Any way to put slots in the top of the corrogated metal tubing in the center to let more heat get to the center of the pot?
I may not be big... but I'm ... slow.

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zelph
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Re: The Albert Skye Alcohol Stove

Postby zelph » Wed Apr 28, 2010 10:24 pm

aambee wrote:
zelph wrote:Update, pot support has been reduced in length.

Any way to put slots in the top of the corrogated metal tubing in the center to let more heat get to the center of the pot?


Yes, I agree...that will work....more heat will be transferred via the inside of the tube support.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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aambee
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Re: The Albert Skye Alcohol Stove

Postby aambee » Thu Apr 29, 2010 1:13 am

zelph wrote:Yes, I agree...that will work....more heat will be transferred via the inside of the tube support.

Maybe use holes so to make it easier to keep the pot support working.
I may not be big... but I'm ... slow.

Albert Skye
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Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:31 pm
Location: coastal B.C.

Re: The Albert Skye Alcohol Stove

Postby Albert Skye » Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:27 am

zelph wrote:
aambee wrote:Any way to put slots in the top of the corrogated metal tubing in the center to let more heat get to the center of the pot?


Yes, I agree...that will work....more heat will be transferred via the inside of the tube support.


I was under the impression that the inner cylinder (be it either the stove wall which extends above the wick or the column on which the stove slides) absorbs heat and helps improve combustion by heating the fuel.

Does that make no significant difference (not just for alcohol)?

JBRanger
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Re: The Albert Skye Alcohol Stove

Postby JBRanger » Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:36 am

I would have to say that that is minimal (the inner wall theory) as that is what makes the Superstove and others so great. When you set on the pot of water that heat transfer doesn't work in reverse and thus heating of the pot and water begin earlier in the burn.

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zelph
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Re: The Albert Skye Alcohol Stove

Postby zelph » Fri Apr 30, 2010 11:14 am

Albert Skye wrote:
zelph wrote:
aambee wrote:Any way to put slots in the top of the corrogated metal tubing in the center to let more heat get to the center of the pot?


Yes, I agree...that will work....more heat will be transferred via the inside of the tube support.


I was under the impression that the inner cylinder (be it either the stove wall which extends above the wick or the column on which the stove slides) absorbs heat and helps improve combustion by heating the fuel.

Does that make no significant difference (not just for alcohol)?


Yes, the inner cylinder will absorb heat away from the stove wall. Heat will be transferred to the pot. Because the corrugated column has less surface touching the stove the heat transfer is less than a stove like the Super Stove.

The Skye stove consists of 2 parts, the burner and the pot support. The burner portion of the stove is an outward formed Venom bottle and only has one layer of wick. It gives off it's fuel faster than a double layer. Because of the corrugated pot support transferring less heat the burner tends to burn hot and fast. The burner is something that I had on hand for a quick demo of Albert's idea.

Those of you that do a lot of testing of this type stove(one that has the pot sit directly on the stove) will have noticed your stove's flame will increase in size once your water reaches boiling point. That's because the water and pot can't absorb anymore heat away from the stove and so it burns in a radical fashion rather than a moderated fashion. It becomes a "free radical" :mrgreen:
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

JBRanger
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Re: The Albert Skye Alcohol Stove

Postby JBRanger » Fri Apr 30, 2010 3:30 pm

Doh! What's that saying about being thought of as a fool and then opening your mouth and removing all doubt?? Didn't realize the Skye had no higher support. Didn't notice the corrugated stand was the pot support. Guess it wouldn't work any other way. DOH! :oops: Oh well.... back to your regularly scheduled post. :lol:


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