Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

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realityguy
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby realityguy » Fri Feb 25, 2011 11:46 am

Perhaps you could take this punch idea and modify a normal punch set(say 1-1/2")with a handle and more power that would speed things up.I know these punches are made for (I think) up to 22 gauge metal galvanized studs but the cost of the thing is prohibitive as far as buying one for that stovemaking purpose;unless you plan on making a lot of them.A larger diameter punch would flex the metal more but it is fast and efficient..but may not fit the inner diameter of the stove body. This New Balance cup does have a stainless liner so I can use it for the pot.(stainless and plastic unscrewable sealing lid).
Back to the punch..maybe you can find a sleeve that fits the diameter of the punch to line things up.I think that is crucial.
If you want better pictures of the punch can post them or PM them to you.
I've always wanted to try a "handled aluminum can crusher" to press pop can stoves together or for some purpose of stove making.. :lol: ..maybe a setup like that would work.

Potstand..looks fine but maybe 4 posts that hang down into the stove and cross across the top hole when folded..unfold(bent sideways point near the bottom end that makes them in place facing only "in" or "out"..when you pull them up.Just enough of a "hump" where they stay in only those two positions and don't twirl around..???.I've used potstands like that except for the position lock..which is needed.Maybe a few bent spots in the upright shaft to lock the pot height at different levels.I don't see anybody coming up with a good simple idea like that.
A couple of my stoves had pins(ones like wedding favors but larger diameter) that just fit down in a hole along the sides of the lid and rested against the bottom of the stove.Twirled out for about a 4" pot width but could be turned inward for a heinecan.Just an idea if you want to try something different. :roll:
The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

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zelph
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby zelph » Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:07 pm

Drywall metal stud electrical punch cuts a 15/16" hole..shown with the maximum reach up into the cup(1-7/16" below the bottom edge of the holes)..

I need more depth to get towards the bottom of the shaker. Yes, you're right about being cost prohibitive at this point of prototyping. They hold their value well on ebay.

I like to keep a stove as simple as possible. 2 pieces are max :D 1 piece is ideal :D :D
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

realityguy
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby realityguy » Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:24 pm

I was thinking more on that and it seems if a person made/found a tube for the two pieces to go into snugly..one stationary and the other the plunger..then make a 'sawcut' across the tube to stick the metal into to punch it.Here's a closer picture of the punch(excuse the rust..it's been in hiding for probably 10-15 years.. :lol:
Image

I imagine a person could make a stationary "arm" base piece it punches into by bolting one pice down to a steel plate arm,like a sewing machine sleeve arm..that you can slip a firemug around or cylinder stove into..then plunge the cutter through an inline tube and through the material you are cutting with a good length handle for pressure off a fulcrum point. :roll: ..or use a rubber headed hammer..Okay..there's the ball..now pick it up and run with it! :lol:
One more thing..the C portion and throw is 1-1/2" or so to get around the side wall of the metal stud,why the plunger piece is longer for traveling more distance..
The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

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zelph
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby zelph » Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:28 pm

A punch like yours recently sold for $78.00, something like that. Larger dia. hole.....1.250"

I got the ball and will hang onto it for a spell :D
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

realityguy
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby realityguy » Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:47 pm

"the ball" ..had a brain fart and forgot I posted that.. :lol: ..I was going to give you a ..HUH?..until I reread my post.. :roll:
I think the 1-1/4" size would be a better size..anything up to 1-1/2" will save a lot of extra punching.Unfortunately I imagine the maximum distance is the same and still 1-3/4" center for a center of a 3-1/2" wide stud.I wonder if they make one for a 5-1/2" stud?(must!)..That would be ideal with a center of the hole being at 2-3/4" from the bottom edge of the "C' portion...With a 1-1/2" hole,that would give you a bottom edge of the hole at 2" from the bottom of the firemug or stove.

Here's the one for the firemug... http://www.toolup.com/greenlee_713_plum ... punch.aspx
The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

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cadyak
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby cadyak » Fri Feb 25, 2011 11:27 pm

that is a heck of a tool!

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cadyak
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby cadyak » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:00 pm

Just a follow-up to our discussion about bits, etc.
I received my (2 pack) of Harbor freight knockout bits today and was pretty excited that the chuck size fit my drill and that the big bit went all the way up to 1-1/4".
I immediately went and put it to use on a special mug that I have been working on. (like a D.A. :x ) I pretty quickly found out that the (2) significantly larger cutting gaps in the bit dont work well with this thickness of stainless.
I dont know whether my drill wasnt fast enough, or whether it is just the size of the cutter but when it drops down to each new level it REALLY wants to grab and torque the metal. I boogered up the hole good. It of course still works fine, but no longer is perfect as it was before when it was 7/8" round. then i tried another cup. Not good.
Just a heads up.

JollyRogers
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby JollyRogers » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:58 pm

Might want to try using a stepless bit.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-stepless-drill-bits-66463.html

I only use the stepped bits for wallowing holes that aren't quite round or if it is soft metal like aluminum sheeting.

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zelph
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby zelph » Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:54 pm

cadyak wrote:Just a follow-up to our discussion about bits, etc.
I received my (2 pack) of Harbor freight knockout bits today and was pretty excited that the chuck size fit my drill and that the big bit went all the way up to 1-1/4".
Just a heads up.


Were they step drills or knockouts?

You need to run at a much slower speed. A drill press is needed also. What are you using? You also need a clamped down v-block vise for holding securely.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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Ridgerunner
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby Ridgerunner » Fri Apr 01, 2011 11:20 pm

Drill a small pilot hole and then enlarge and keep the bit lubricated. ;)
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