Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

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realityguy
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Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby realityguy » Sat Feb 19, 2011 2:10 pm

Image
Cut a 3/4" wood hole plug with a 2" hole saw and another with a 2-1/8" holesaw.
Then take the 2-1/8" hole saw and grind the teeth off of it..the 2" hole saw will fit inside the 2-1/8" if the teeth are barely ground on the [b]outside edge..making them flush to the main body of the holesaw material[/b].Using a 5/16" or 3/8" bolt,the parts can be assembled to punch holes in aluminum and maybe thin stainless with the wood inside "plugs" used for alignment purposes as long as they are probably 1/4" from the outside ends so the pieces will interlock/overlap cutting the portion of the metal out.
of course you'll need to drill the hole through the material.
Any two holesaws 1/8" apart should work with doing a little tight fitting and grinding teeth off the outer one to keep the area smooth around the hole.Since a 2-1/8" is a standard door knob hole I have lots of them and I don't mind grinding one.It's probably the most common size out there.It's also a good size for feeding wood into a wood stove.

No..I didn't cut the wood alignment plugs..leaving the house but will do it when I come back ...and test it out.The alignment is important.The deeper the hole saws and thicker wood inside the better the alignment of course..as long as the pieces can interlock 1/4" it should work fine..or you can go pay Greenlee $50-100 for one.. :lol:
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Ridgerunner
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby Ridgerunner » Sat Feb 19, 2011 4:28 pm

We salivate with anticipation of your video showing the whole process in motion! :D :DP:
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realityguy
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby realityguy » Sat Feb 19, 2011 5:04 pm

Forget the video..need more testing..I modified the inside one for teeth.The full surround couldn't get a bite or start the cut..Anyway..it left a little ragged edge but you get the idea.--->
Image

I would you a vise and impact wrench to turn the bolt.It was pretty hairy(read as "dangerous") without it with the sharp metal sides and trying to hang onto things.. :shock: The inner edges of the teeth should be sharpened all the way to cut better.I just did the very tips.It took quite a bit of effort with a couple short wrenches to cut this out of some thin rolled steel flashing.Sharp teeth would have made a huge difference..Figure it as a 6-8 tooth "P38 canopener" that cuts in a single pass... :lol:

the idea is sound,just needs some mods,sharper teeth,etc.Once the bugs are out,it should cut like butter!
If you are cutting a round can or object(as a stainless cup) you might need to grind a "radius cut" on the blades so it fits the object better.

Video? would have been grunting and groaning...and a very small poriton of what was really going on...wRENCH,VISE,AND IMPACT WRENCH ARE THE WAY TO GO.
The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

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zelph
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby zelph » Sat Feb 19, 2011 10:00 pm

donut to a dollar it don't work. Needs to be guided straight, no wobble whatsoever. :mrgreen:
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

realityguy
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby realityguy » Sat Feb 19, 2011 10:27 pm

I think a slide hammer might be the way to go... :roll:
The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

stevebo
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby stevebo » Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:18 pm

So, is it basically a homemade chassis punch? :?:

realityguy
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby realityguy » Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:22 pm

Yeah..but a lot of things could be made to improve it..and it's definitely cheap(like free!) if you have a whole lot of holes saws like I do.. :roll:
We were discussing cutting holes in the 'firemugs' in another thread..This was just a "suggestion with pictures"..I still would use a "jig" taped onto one mug and rout the rest with using a laminate trimmer and a bearing bit myself by placing the "jig cup" over another identical one..should take about 45 seconds to cut one after you drill a start hole..this "punch idea would take longer.
If someone wants to cut aluminum or something..this beats the price of a greenlee chassis punch..
If it was me,I'd use this--->Image

But I doubt anybody else would want to invest in one..probably retail $60-100..I don't know. :roll:

EDIT: :lol: ..I wasn't even close---> http://www.toolfetch.com/steel-studs-bead-21285.shtml

I think I got mine at a thrift store for $10..good thing I didn't sell it for $20... :shock:
The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

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zelph
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby zelph » Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:08 pm

RG, go out and get a stainless mug and try the stud punch on it and let us know how it worked. I bet not good because of the flat area on the punch. Too much deformity of the cups wall to get a good punch out. Try it!!! :D
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

realityguy
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby realityguy » Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:45 pm

The punch is only around a 1" to 1-1/4" hole(think the link said 43mm) so the radius of the cups shouldn't be a problem.The reach might be a problem,only centered on a 3-1/2" stud..or 1-3/4" to the center of the holes,about 1" from the bottom edge of the cup.Were you thinking of buying one?It would probably take me more time to find the punch than to find the stainless cup. :lol: ...They used to make a special insert of plastic that went around the thinwall conduit that went through the metal studs,same outer size as copper pipes.The outer diameter of the plastic plug was always the same but the inside allowed 1/2" or 3/4" electrical thinwall..depending on what you needed.The plug was placed around the pipe,pounded in,and basically centered the thinwall in the punched hole and held it solid there protected from the sharp metal edges of the stud hole.
I imagine they still use that "plug system".I just haven't used it for a long time because I haven't done commercial work for a lot of years.i still have my hilti 22 cal. 10 shot stud guns and a lot of commerical tools in a big "JOBOX" that is locked(gawd I hope the key is in the locks.. :shock: ),bolted from inside to the floor of the garage and has been for 10-15 years.I don't remember what is in there but it's got a lot of junk stacked on top...Think it's loaded with air tools..nail guns.I guess I'll have to open it again someday and see. :roll:
The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

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zelph
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Re: Realityguy's 10 minute hole punch...

Postby zelph » Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:18 pm

Were you thinking of buying one?It would probably take me more time to find the punch than to find the stainless cup.


Yes, I'll start watching ebay. :D You'll never be able to find yours. :mrgreen:
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/


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