The high btu output Is in the way the burner, burns. I call it induction the burner inducts air into itself producing the inner flame pattern the outer stove design enhances this to create high intensity output." Burner by itself doesn't create the same intensity at all". To much back pressure from incorrect stove design with to much or to little "air volume" effects performance greatly as you probably already know! Simplified, burner height, stove height, pot height. You can hear when the burner is burning right! Its one steady loader hiss all the way to EBT. The priming of outside can with 2.5 to 5ml helps burner to get it to temperature faster.zelph wrote:WaRp dRiVe
Perfect name for the burner That unit sure puts out the btu's and get the boil well under 4 min...........wow oh wow!!!
Watch burner when lit look at flame parttern once primed . Look inside stove through holes, no flame in stove, just out the top coming from with in burner not outside of burner. The first and , last stove design sits flush right on top of burner.
The other two stove variants for WaRpDrIvE burner were weak in air flow and once proper air flow was achieved on variant II the burner itself was not burning properly to much back pressure. On the variant I, in the diagram above marked variant, to little air volume. I cut out the excessive material in breather can top to form width of holes to center, fingers now hold burner securely with large vents surrounding. Made a shorter WaRp DrIvE burner to fit the overall shorter stove and it works great . I'll get some video soon, batteries in camera went dead last knight.
The top screen is held in by itself, going all the way down to inner ridge of the can it sits in. The aluminum ring with the machined small holes works well too, with correct pot height. Go higher and it will melt it like butter on a hot ear of corn, you can go higher with the right material but you lose some efficiency in burner and wind protection higher flame bbeing exposed to wind.
Having some trouble with logging in....