Starburst Alcohol stove

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Pnw.hiker
Posts: 54
Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 5:09 pm

Re: Starburst Alcohol stove

Post by Pnw.hiker » Mon Aug 30, 2010 2:44 pm

realityguy wrote:However,that potstand appears easy to store and pack though,just put it in your pocket!..but just a tad inconvenient when you have to be elsewhere for the moment.

No,we aren't making fun of you..just wondering what you plan to use for one... ;)
You can see may latest cookset here; https://sites.google.com/site/backpackingstove/

I used the potstand/windscreen in the bottom 4 pictures.

realityguy
Posts: 5948
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Location: slightly north of Seattle,WA

Re: Starburst Alcohol stove

Post by realityguy » Mon Aug 30, 2010 10:57 pm

It still looks lightweight,inexpensive to make,and easy to pack..my style of windscreen/potstand,MYOG. ;) .

I see you are from Oregon..Oh well..too far away.. :roll:
The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

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zelph
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Re: Starburst Alcohol stove

Post by zelph » Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:11 am

What is the purpose of the vertical indention's on the windscreen?
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

Pnw.hiker
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Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 5:09 pm

Re: Starburst Alcohol stove

Post by Pnw.hiker » Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:36 am

zelph wrote:What is the purpose of the vertical indention's on the windscreen?
stiffening ribs. help's it keep its shape. The pot support tangs are riveted right next to the ribs. Also insures an even gap between the pot and the screen.

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zelph
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Re: Starburst Alcohol stove

Post by zelph » Tue Aug 31, 2010 2:32 pm

Pnw.hiker wrote:
zelph wrote:What is the purpose of the vertical indention's on the windscreen?
stiffening ribs. help's it keep its shape. The pot support tangs are riveted right next to the ribs. Also insures an even gap between the pot and the screen.
Thank you. It looks pretty beefy, lots of strength there. :D

I would speculate that the majority of air that assists in the burning of fuel comes from over the top of your burner. I agree that air is brought in under the 1/4 " gap at the base of your outer wall and enters on the inside of the fuel reservoir.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

Pnw.hiker
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Re: Starburst Alcohol stove

Post by Pnw.hiker » Wed Sep 01, 2010 7:07 pm

Pnw.hiker wrote: ...Holds 2 oz, but I only use 1/2oz at a time...
typo, actually holds 2 T, or about 1 oz. For more fuel go with bigger diameter cans.
zelph wrote:I would speculate that the majority of air that assists in the burning of fuel comes from over the top of your burner. I agree that air is brought in under the 1/4 " gap at the base of your outer wall and enters on the inside of the fuel reservoir.
could be, i'm guessing that a small amount air moving through that gap helps. Should be easy to test ... just block off the gap and see how the stove burns ... I'll do that next tinkering session.

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zelph
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Re: Starburst Alcohol stove

Post by zelph » Wed Sep 01, 2010 10:31 pm

I think the outer wall of the stove is acting like a heat sheild/heat sink, preventing a radical fast burn of fuel. The majority of the flame ring is touching the outer wall which is not connected to the base of the stove for heat transfer to the main body.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

Pnw.hiker
Posts: 54
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Re: Starburst Alcohol stove

Post by Pnw.hiker » Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:11 pm

zelph wrote:I think the outer wall of the stove is acting like a heat sheild/heat sink, preventing a radical fast burn of fuel. The majority of the flame ring is touching the outer wall which is not connected to the base of the stove for heat transfer to the main body.
Another thing to investigate ... If you are right, the stove should burn faster as more of the outer wall is trimmed away. Right? Seems like an easy thing to test. As more and more of the outer wall is removed, the airflow will eventually change paths and the stove will burn in a different way. I might have time to tinker with this tonight. Thanks for the insights.

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zelph
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Re: Starburst Alcohol stove

Post by zelph » Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:43 pm

Pnw.hiker wrote:
zelph wrote:I think the outer wall of the stove is acting like a heat sheild/heat sink, preventing a radical fast burn of fuel. The majority of the flame ring is touching the outer wall which is not connected to the base of the stove for heat transfer to the main body.
Another thing to investigate ... If you are right, the stove should burn faster as more of the outer wall is trimmed away. Right? Seems like an easy thing to test. As more and more of the outer wall is removed, the airflow will eventually change paths and the stove will burn in a different way. I might have time to tinker with this tonight. Thanks for the insights.
Make another one, don't trim the original. Keep the shoulder, remove the part that extends downward. Test side by side.

Yes.....interesting things going on with your design. Keeping heat away from main body of stove. The flame pattern forms on the outer shell, only the tips of the triangles touch the fuel...........interesting :D
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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